3-star restaurant with seaview near Marseille Vieux Port
SEE THE MENU
of the South
the sharp and potent
flavour of rockfish
There are three courses of fish – whereas tradition settles for two, three phases to dive into the depths of sea flavours. First the raw shellfish, like those that I collected as a child in the calanques – to enjoy with wrasse fish goujonnettes, a “small fry”. Then follow the mid-depth fish, like monkfish or weever, which vary depending on the season and how the Mediterranean is behaving, plunged into a light saffron bouillon. Finally we reach the fish from the great depths, like the scorpion fish or sea bass, cooked whole for even more smoothness, a thick rockfish soup, potatoes cooked in the bouillon and a real fisherman’s rouille, with a base of tomatoes, chilli and garlic.
Each fish adds its own note, and joins the others in the bouillon, returning to the realm from which they originated.